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New Italian Counter Spot Lands in Hyde Park: Umarell
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Paige DeChausse
Paige DeChausse thrives in the unique juxtaposition of her roles: a behind-the-scenes powerhouse in real estate team management and a captivating fron...
Paige DeChausse thrives in the unique juxtaposition of her roles: a behind-the-scenes powerhouse in real estate team management and a captivating fron...
For nearly three decades, the corner of 45th and Guadalupe belonged to Wok N Express. It was a family-owned place that didn’t try to stand out because it didn’t have to. You went when you were tired, when you didn’t want to think too hard about dinner, when you needed something familiar and dependable. It folded itself quietly into everyday life in Hyde Park, which is usually how the best neighborhood spots operate.
When the owners decided to retire earlier this year and lease out the space, the lights went dark and the corner felt oddly unfinished. People kept walking by, glancing in, wondering what might come next and whether anything new could move in without changing the feel of the block.
Umarell opened its doors in Hyde Park on February 3, 2026, introducing a fresh, counter-service take on Italian comfort food in the neighborhood. You order at the counter, find a seat, eat, and leave when you’re ready. No pacing. No ceremony. Dinner fits into the shape of a regular night.
The first thing you notice when you walk in is the smell. Warm tomato sauce. Bread. Something frying. The room has already picked up a rhythm. Checkered tablecloths on the tables, big booths along the walls, Tiffany-style lights overhead casting a soft, amber glow. It feels like a place that expects people to come back, not just pass through once.
Checkered tablecloths cover the tables. Large booths line the room. Tiffany-style lights hang overhead. The space feels practical and settled, like it’s already figured out what it’s there to do. A place for regulars. Neighborhood fare where families eat in or grab dinner to go. Something from another time, in the best way. Affordable. Uncomplicated. Good.
Graffeo’s business partner is Mo Pittle of JewBoy Burgers, who also brought the restaurant its name. Umarell is an Italian term used to describe retired men who linger around construction sites, watching closely and offering unsolicited advice. The word is affectionate, a little funny, and telling. Graffeo has said he liked that the name sounds serious until you learn what it means—at which point it becomes something warmer and more human.
The kitchen is run alongside chef de cuisine Matthew Toader, another Emmer & Rye alum, and a small team who helped build out the space themselves. That hands-on involvement shows. This isn’t a concept designed to travel. It isn’t trying to scale or replicate itself. It’s meant to stay right where it is.
Umarell is still new, still settling in. You can feel it happening in real time. Some people are there for the first visit, some are already back, and some are just relieved there’s something open again on that corner.
What’s nice is that it already feels like it belongs. You can stop in on a normal night, eat, and head home without it becoming a whole thing. And in a neighborhood like Hyde Park, that matters.
Umarell Hours
Sunday: 2:00 PM – 9:00 PM
Monday: Closed
Tuesday: 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Wednesday: 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Thursday: 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Friday: 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Saturday: 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
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